Hello fellow hookers!!!
I finally got to making something that's been on my list for quite a while - Smurfette! :) She's turned out to be really adorable!
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| She's only 3.5 inches tall - I guess you could say she's life sized!!! |
Let's get started...
Things you will need:
Crochet Cotton Thread – size 10 – blue
Pearl Cotton Thread – Yellow & White
Crochet Hooks – 1.50mm (for the doll) & 1.25mm (shoes, dress & hat)
Googly eyes 7mm
Doll stuffing
3mm beads – 2 (to use as buttons for the dress)
Gauge:
8 sc x 8 rows = 1 inch x 1 inch
Terms/Stitches used:
FC – Foundation Chain
Ch – Chain
Sl st – Slip Stitch
Sc – Single Crochet
Hdc – Half Double Crochet
Dc – Double Crochet
BLO – Back Loop Only
FLO – Front Loop Only
Dec – Decrease (2 stitches together unless mentioned otherwise)
Inc – Increase (2 stitches in the same stitch unless mentioned otherwise)
FO – Fasten Off
Pattern Notes:
- The entire doll is worked inside out. The dress, shoe and hat are done normally.
- The hat & shoe are removable, the dress is not.
- I use a contrasting piece of scrap yarn as a Stich Marker. You can find a tutorial here.
- I prefer using the Invisible decrease for sc as it does not leave a weird looking bump. Here is a tutorial on how to do the invisible decrease while working inside out.
- I followed this tutorial for attaching the hair.
- Stuff as you go wherever possible.
- While fastening off, remember to leave a tail long enough to sew the parts together.
- Please note that the dress, hat & shoes are made with smaller sized thread & hook. You would end up with jumbo sized clothes if you use the same size you have used for the doll. :)
Pattern:
Hands – make 2
Fingers - [Ch3, sl st in the 2nd & 3rd ch] x 4
Turn work 90°, ch1 work 4sc along the side of the rows.
R1 – ch1, 4sc in BLO, turn, 4sc in remaining loops [8sc]
(work in continuous rounds from here)
R2 – 1sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 1sc [6]
R2 – 1sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 1sc [6]
R3 to R5 – 6sc
FO
FO
Leg – Make 2
FC 5 ch
R1 – 2sc in 2nd ch, 2sc, 5sc in next ch. Continue working on the other side of the FC, 2sc, 3sc in last ch, sl st [14]
R2 – ch1, 14 sc FLO, sl st [14]
R3 – ch1, 4sc, dc5tog, 5sc [10]
R4 – 3sc, dc2tog twice, 3sc [8]
Make 1sc to move the beginning of the row by 1 st, place marker
R5 – [2sc, dec] twice [6]
R6-R10 – 6sc
FO.
Do not FO the second leg, continue working the body by joining both legs.
Body
R11 –3sc, 6sc in leg 2, 3sc in leg 1. [12]
R12 – 12sc
R13 – 2sc, dec, 8sc [11]
R14 – 2sc, dec, 7sc [10]
R15 – 2sc, dec, 6sc [9]
R16 – 1sc, dec, 6sc [8]
R17 - 1sc, dec, 5sc [7]
FO.
Head
Ch2
R1 – 6sc in 2nd ch.
R2 – 6inc [12]
R3 – [1sc, inc] x6 [18]
R4 – [2sc, inc] x6 [24]
R5 – 24sc
R6 – 24sc
R7 – 12sc, picot, 12sc [24]
R8 – 24sc
R9 – 24sc
With the nose as a reference point, attach the hair before beginning the decrease. [I found it quite difficult to do it in the end as I kept pulling out the stuffing]. I’ve got roughly about 120 strands that are 7inches long.
I used a technique I came across on YouTube recently (I have included the link in the pattern notes.) I really like this technique because there are no knots visible on the outside. Secure the last strand with some fabric glue on the inside.
Once you are happy with the hair, secure it in place with some fabric glue on the inside. Once it has dried up a but you can start stuffing the head and continue.
I used a technique I came across on YouTube recently (I have included the link in the pattern notes.) I really like this technique because there are no knots visible on the outside. Secure the last strand with some fabric glue on the inside.
Once you are happy with the hair, secure it in place with some fabric glue on the inside. Once it has dried up a but you can start stuffing the head and continue.
R10 – [2sc, dec] x6 [18]
R11 – [1sc, dec] x6 [12]
R12 – 6dec [6]
FO
Shoes make 2
FC ch7
R1 – sc in 2nd ch, 4sc, 3sc in next ch. Continue working on the other side of the FC, 4sc, 2sc in last ch. Sl st [14]
R2 – ch1, inc , 4sc, 3inc, 4sc, 2inc. sl st [20]
R3 – ch1, inc, 6sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 2sc. Sl st [24]
R4 – ch1, BLO. 24sc. Sl st
R5 – ch1 24sc sl st
R6 – ch 1, 6sc, 1hdc, dc8tog, 1hdc, 8sc. Sl st [17]
FO.
Dress
String 2 3mm beads on the thread before starting.
FC – Ch18, sl st in 1st ch to form a loop
R1 – dc, PDC, 14dc, PDC, dc, sl st [18]
R2 – [2dc, inc] x 6, sl st [24]
R3 – [3dc, inc] x 6, sl st [30]
R4 – [4dc, inc] x 6, sl st [36]
FO
Turn the skirt right way up front side facing you, identify the middle of R1 & mark it. We will be working on 6 stitches [3 on either side of the marker]
R1 – join with standing dc in the 3rd st from the right, dc in the next 5 sts.
R2 – Ch 11, dc in 4th ch from hook, sc in the next 7 chs, sc in the next 6dc, ch 11, dc in the 4th ch from the hook, sc in the next 7 chs.
FO
Hat [first ch3 is counted as a dc in all the rows]
FC ch 4, join in 1st ch to form a ring
R1 – ch1, 40 sc, sl st
R2 – 40 dc, sl st
R3 – [3dc, dec] x 8 [32]
R4 – 16dec [16]
R5 – [2dc, dec] x 4 [12]
R6 – [dc, dec] x 4 [8]
R7 – 8dc
R8 – 8dc
R9 – 8dc
I've folded the hat and sewn it so that it'll hold it's shape.
I've folded the hat and sewn it so that it'll hold it's shape.
Assembly
Now lets put tihs girl together :)
Fit the dress over the body. [optional: I’ve pined it down so it doesn’t get in the way]
Sew the arms in place (be careful not to sew it along with the dress) and button up.
Sew the head.
Trim the Hair
Using some black thread, sew the mouth and secure it with some fabric glue.
Stick the eyes.
Add the shoes & hat
Now you’re done!!! I hope you enjoyed making this doll. If you have any questions regarding this pattern post them in the comments section.
You may sell the items made out of this pattern, but do credit me as the designer.
Follow @madewithlovebydaisy on Instagram to receive updates on new patterns & giveaways.
Happy hooking!
Daisy
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